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Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Chaptar (2.4) History of Textile Fibers

Traditionally, natural fibers have been used in all cultures for making utilitarian products. Different parts of the plant are used. Fibers can be extracted from the bark (banana, jute, hemp, ramie), stem (banana, palm, bamboo), leaf (palm, screw pine, sisal, agave), husk (coir), seeds (cotton), and grass (sikki, madhurkati, benakati, munj). Animal fibers are obtained from a variety of animal coats, and insect fibers from cocoons.
Even before the arrival of man-made fibers, manufacturers could create hundreds of different kinds of fabrics, differing mainly by fiber content, weight, style of weave, or sheen. Here are just a few of these historic fabrics, along with the natural fiber from which they were originally made (nearly all can be made now with other fibers, either natural or synthetic).

Natural Fibers

 

Natural fibers have traditionally been used in all cultures of the world to meet basic requirements of clothing, storage, building material, and for items of daily use such as ropes and fishing nets. People in olden times used various kinds of natural fibers depending on their local availability. 
The first composite material in history was apparently made with clay and straw in Egypt 3000 years ago to build walls. Hemp was cultivated in China in 2800 BC and is considered one of the oldest natural fibers to be taken in use for making products along with linen. Hemp in Greek and Latin terminology was cannabis that led to the word canvas as hemp was used for making sails of boats.    Flax or fine linen was used for burial shrouds of Egyptian pharaohs. Similarly nettle was used for making fishing nets in olden times.
India is rich in plant resources and the use of a variety of natural fibers such as banana, pineapple, sisal, hemp, coconut, palm, grasses etc was widely prevalent in olden times. Their use became limited once cotton acquired the prime status in plant fibers. In cotton production, organic cotton accounts for a very small percentage of total cotton production. Silk, linen and jute are other natural fibers that have continued to enjoy popularity.

Linen/Flax Fiber

 

Linen is one of the earliest products known to civilization. When man was in his earliest primitive state, living on the wide animals he hunted, the skins of those animals formed his only clothing. Later, when nomadic communities formed, driving herds of cattle and sheep across the lands of Eastern Europe during those great migrations, the wool from those flocks of sheep was used to clothe their owners.
After a long period of history, man settled down, built himself permanent cities, and cultivated the land. One of the products of the soil was flax, and out of the fiber from flax, linen was made. Linen is, therefore, the earliest known vegetable fabric to be woven.
Domestication of fiber flax to say nothing of seed flax occurred in India and China before that of cotton - more than 5,000 years ago. Some scholars believe that flax originally came from western Persia and spread over to other countries regarded to be the regions of early flax cultivation - India, China and Central Asia and westwards and southwestwards, primarily, to Babylon and Egypt.
Flax, from which linen is made, is one of the oldest agricultural plants in the world. Over 5000 years ago the Egyptians named it "woven moonlight", due to its very singular beauty. A little less poetic, but all the more apt, is the Latin appellation: "linum usitatissimum" – the extremely useful flax plant.
Flax has been used in the Middle East since the fifth millennium BCE. In Egypt its role was probably more important than in many other cultures, as Egyptians rarely used wool and cotton was unknown during much of their ancient history. It was seen as a gift of the Nile, as the Hymn to Hapi has it: People are clothed with the flax of his fields.
Through time linen has persisted. Its history is also closely interwoven with the Bible stories. Linen has always been held in reference as an emblem of purity, and it is mentioned frequently in the Old Testament.
Linen is the most ancient vegetable fabric known to man. For centuries people have been growing flax to make fiber and weave linen. But despite its venerable age flax remains to be as young as ever.

Cotton Fibers


The oldest cotton fibers and boll fragments, dated from around 5000 B.C., were discovered in Mexico. In 5 B.C., the Greek historian Herodotus reported of a plant that “bore fleece.” Cotton has been worn in India and Egypt for over 5,000 years. Cotton was grown by Native Americans as early as 1500. In England in the 1700s, it was against the law to import or manufacture fabric made of cotton since it was a threat to the sheep and wool industry.
American colonists were able to grow lots of cotton, but processing was difficult. It was not until the 1700s that the cotton industry flourished in the United States. It was then that Samuel Slater, an Englishman, built the first American cotton mill. These mills converted cotton fibers into yarn and cloth.
In 1793, Eli Whitney developed the cotton gin, which mechanically separates the seed from the lint fiber. Whitney named his machine a "gin," short for the word "engine." Technology has improved over the past centuries making cotton growth and production much more efficient

Wool Fibers

 

Over 8,000 years ago people domesticated sheep. Sheep were one of the first animals to be herded by humans. Sheep helped provide people with food, clothing and shelter. As humans moved from place to place, sheep were easy to herd and take with them.
Buying and selling wool cloth was important to many areas. As early as 4,000 B.C. woolen cloth was being used in the city of Babylon. Babylon means “land of wool.”

Man made Fibers 

The history of man-made fibers is less than a century old; until 1910, there were no synthetic or chemical fibers. Today, by mixing different components, manufacturers can take the basic fibers listed below and make them more waterproof or more absorbent, warmer or cooler, thicker or thinner, stiffer or more supple. Some, like polyester and spandex, combine well with natural fibers, making fabrics that wrinkle less or are more form-fitting.







































                                                    
  

Chaptar (2.3) Fiber Identification - tests to identify a fibre

A number of methods are available for characterization of the structural, physical, and chemical properties of fibres. Various methods are used for fibre identification like microscopic methods, solubility, heating and burning method, density and staining etc. End-use property characterization methods often involve use of laboratory techniques which are adapted to simulate actual conditions of average wear on the textile or that can predict performance in end-use.

Fiber Identification Methods

fiber inspection through microscope
  • Microscopic Identification: Positive identification of many natural fibers is possible using the microscope
  • Solubility: The chemical structure of polymers in a fiber determines the fiber's basic solubility characteristics
  • Heating and Burning Characteristics: The reaction of fibers to heat from an open flame is a useful guide in identification of fibers.
  • Density or Specific Gravity: Fiber density may be used as an aid in fiber identification
  • Staining: Fibers have differing dyeing characteristics and affinities dependent on the chemical and morphological structure of the fiber. 

Structural, Physical and Chemical Characterization

fiber inspectionA number of methods are available for characterization of the structural, physical, and chemical properties of fibers.
  • Optical and Electron Microscopy: Optical microscopy (OM) has been used for many years as a rel iable method to determine the gross morphology of a fiber in longitudinal as well as cross-sectional views.
  • Elemental and End-Group Analysis: The qualitative and quantitative analysis of the chemical elements and groups in a fiber may aid in identification and characterization of a fiber
  • Infrared Spectroscopy: Infrared spectroscopy is a valuable tool in determination of functional groups within a fiber
  • Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy: The ultraviolet-visible spectra of fibers, dyes, and finishes can provide clues concerning the structure of these materials, as well as show the nature of electronic transitions that occur within the material as light is absorbed at various wavelengths by unsaturated groups giving an
    electronically excited molecule.
  • Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy: Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy measures the relative magnitude and direction (moment) of spin orientation of the nucleus of the individual atoms within a polymer from a fiber in solution in a highintensity magnetic field
  • X-Ray Diffraction: X-rays diffracted from or reflected off of crystalline or semicrystalline polymeric materials will give patterns related to the crystalline and amorphous areas within a fiber
  • Thermal Analysis: Physical and chemical changes in fibers may be investigated by measuring changes in selected properties as small samples of fiber are heated at a steady rate over a given temperature range in an inert atmosphere such as nitrogen.
  • Molecular Weight Determination: Molecular weight determination methods provide information concerning the average size and distribution of individual polymer molecules making up a fiber
  • Mechanical and Tensile Property Measurements: Mechanical and tensile measurements for fibers include tenacity or tensile strength, elongation at break, recovery from limited elongation, stiffness (relative force required to bend the fiber), and recovery from bending.
  • Specific Gravity: The specific gravity of a fiber is a measure of its density in relation to the density of the same volume of water, and provides a method to
    relate the mass per unit volume of a given fiber to that of other fibers
  • Environmental Properties: Environmental properties include those physical properties which relate to the environment in which a fiber is found. Moisture regain, solvent solubility, heat conductivity, the physical effect of heat, and the electrical properties depend on the environmental conditions surrounding
    the fiber
  • Chemical Properties: The chemical properties of fibers include the effects of chemical agents including acids, bases, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, and biological agents such as molds and mildews on the fiber and light- and heatinduced chemical changes within the fiber
  

End-Use Property Characterization

fiber characteristicsEnd-use property characterization methods often involve use of laboratory techniques which are adapted to simulate actual conditions of average wear on the textile or that can predict performance in end-use. End-use methods are usually voluntary or mandatory standards developed by test or trade organizations or by government agencies. Organizations involved in standards development for textile end-use include the following:
End user properties characterizations are determined on the following aspects:
  • Characteristics Related to Identity, Aesthetics, and Comfort: Fibers are known by common, generic, and trade names. The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, administered by the Federal Trade Commission, established generic names for all major classes of fibers based on the structure of the fiber
  • Characteristics Related to Durability and Wear: The useful I ife of a fabric depends on a number of factors, including the strength, stretch, recovery, toughness, and abrasion resistance of the fiber and the tearing and bursting resistance of the fabrics made from that fiber
  • Physical and Chemical Characteristics and Response of Fiber to Its Environmental Surroundings: The physical and chemical characteristics of a fiber affect a number of important end-use properties:
    • Heat (physical and chemical) effect on fibers, including the safe ironing temperature and flammability,
    • Wetting of and soil removal from the fiber, including laundering, drycleaning, and fiber dyeability and fastness, and
    • Chemical resistance, including resistance to attack by household chemicals and atmospheric gases, particularly in the presence of sunlight.

Chaptar( 2.2) Blended Fiber Analysis


Blended fibers/blends combine 2 or more fiber substances into a single fiber strand or yarn with modified or changed properties and appearance of the fiber, yarn or fabric. Each fiber has separate set of physical and aesthetic characteristics inherent in its design. The blended fibers are made to create the kind of fiber required to meet the specific needs of the industry. Fiber blends have their own characteristics depending upon the type and the percentage of the specific fibers used. Each fiber in a blend adds not only favorable properties but also undesirable properties. Fiber blends however utilize the advantages of all fiber to counteract the disadvantages of each single fiber. Man-made fibers can be blended with one or more other fibers , either natural or man-made.

Mixed fiber Yarn’s analysis
Mixed fiber yarns are the combination of two or more strands of different fibers to form one yarn. Mixed fiber yarn may:
  • Be of any conventional or novelty construction
  • Contain two or more piles
  • Contain equal or unequal fiber percentages
  • Be of any twist tension desired
Mixed fiber yarns are classified as spun blended yarns, blended ply yarns and mixture/combination yarns.
Spun blend yarns: Fibers from two or more textile sources are spun inot a yarn. Spun blends may be of equal or unequal fiber percentages. Blended ply yarns: Different fiber yarns are twisted together to form one yarn.
Mixture/Combination Yarn: Yarn utilizing two or more different types of different fiber contents.

Methods for Blending Fibers

There are 3 different methods used for blending fibers:
  1. Opening method: Fibers are fed into the machine alternately from two or more bales.
  2. Roving method: Different fiber strands are combined and twisted together drawing the slivers to a size suitable for spinning.
  3. Spinning method: The combing of two strands twisted into a single yarn. Long finer fibers migrate towards the center while shorter fibers remain to the outside.

Friday, January 27, 2012

How To Buy Your BPL Ticket in Online



At frist you goto the following web site-
http://www.easy.com.bd/bpl_fixture.php
Then need to registration,after registration u need to Log in
Then Show like this-





Then Click




Then show like this-

Southern Entry
Category Minigate Block Price Buy Ticket
Sadid Mustaq Stand 5, 6A A,B,C 3500
International Stand South 7 D,E 5000
Southern Stand 9A, 10 F,G,H 1000
BCB Corporate Lounge 6B, 9B No Seat & Block Customization, Only Gate No 8000
BCB Loungh 9B No Seat & Block Customization, Only Gate No 12000
BCB Corporate Box South 6B, 9B No Seat & Block Customization, Only Gate No 12000
Eastern Entry
Category Minigate Block Price Buy Ticket
Eastern Stand 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 I,J,K,L,M,N 500
Nothaern Entry
Category Minigate Block Price Buy Ticket
Brothern Stand 17, 18, 19 o,p,q 1000
International Stand North 21 r,s 8000
Shahid Jwel Stand 22, 23 t,u,v 3500
Western Entry
Category Minigate Block Price Buy Ticket
VIP Grand Stand 4 SOUNT 5000
VIP Grand Stand 1 NORTH 5000
Director Enclosure 2 MIDDLE 5000
BCB Dignitaries 2 MIDDLE 5000
BCB Corporate BOX West 3 No Block name will be customize 12000
Invitation Card 2 No Block name will be customize 12000

Then select ur ticket quantity number.
Then show like this-

Select your collection Point from below Branches of Dhaka Bank)

Ticket Summery
Gate Name Number of ticket Unit Price(BDT) Total Price(BDT)
Sadid Mustaq Stand 2 3500.00 7000.00
Total: 7000.00
Pay With
DBBL Nexus Card (Bank Charge: BDT 133)
Visa Card (Bank Charge: BDT 371)
Master Card (Bank Charge: BDT 294)
Brac Bank (Bank Charge: BDT 371)

Then Select your collection Point from below Branches of Dhaka Bank.
Then select pay with then enter the data about ur card then coleect ur ticket number...





Thursday, January 26, 2012

Bangladesh Premier League( BPL) Schedule & Fixture 2012



Icon Players: 
Dhaka Gladiators : Mohammad Ashraful
Barisal Burners: Shahriar Nafees 
Chittagong Kings : Tamim Iqbal 
Duronto Rajshahi : Mushfiqur Rahim
Sylhet Royals : Alok Kapali 
Khulna Royal Bengal : Shakib Al Hasan

Bangladesh Premier League Schedule   & Fixture 2012 :

Date. Day No Match 1 Team Time Venue No Match 2 Team Time
10 Feb 2012 Friday 1 Barisal Burners VS Sylhet Royals 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 2 Chittagong Kings VS Duronto Rajshahi 6:30pm - 9:30pm
11 Feb 2012 Sat
3 Dhaka Gladiators VS Khulna Royal Bengal 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 4 Barisal Burners VS Duronto Rajshahi 6:30pm - 9:30pm
12 Feb 2012 Sun
5 Chittagong Kings VS Khulna Royal Bengal 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 6 Dhaka Gladiators VS Sylhet Royals 6:30pm - 9:30pm
13 Feb 2012 Mon
7 Barisal Burners VS Khulna Royal Bengal 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 8 Chittagong Kings VS Dhaka Gladiators 6:30pm - 9:30pm
14 Feb 2012 Tue
9 Duronto Rajshahi VS Sylhet Royals 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 10 Barisal Burners VS Dhaka Gladiators 6:30pm - 9:30pm
15 Feb 2012 Wed
11 Chittagong Kings VS Sylhet Royals 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 12 Khulna Royal Bengal VS Duronto Rajshahi 6:30pm - 9:30pm
16 Feb 2012 Thu
13 Barisal Burners VS Chittagong Kings 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 14 Dhaka Gladiators VS Duronto Rajshahi 6:30pm - 9:30pm
18 Feb 2012 Sat
15 Chittagong Kings VS Khulna Royal Bengal 2pm - 5 pm Chittagong 16 Barisal Burners VS Sylhet Royals 6:30pm - 9:30pm
19 Feb 2012 Sun 17 Chittagong Kings VS Duronto Rajshahi 2pm - 5 pm Chittagong 18 Dhaka Gladiators VS Khulna Royal Bengal 6:30pm - 9:30pm
20 Feb 2012 Mon
19 Barisal Burners VS Duronto Rajshahi 2pm - 5 pm Chittagong 20 Sylhet Royals VS Khulna Royal Bengal 6:30pm - 9:30pm
22 Feb 2012 Wed
21 Dhaka Gladiators VS Sylhet Royals 2pm - 5 pm Chittagong 22 Barisal Burners VS Khulna Royal Bengal 6:30pm - 9:30pm
24 Feb 2012 Friday 23 Chittagong Kings VS Dhaka Gladiators 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 24 Duronto Rajshahi VS Sylhet Royals 6:30pm - 9:30pm
25 Feb 2012 Sat
25 Barisal Burners VS Dhaka Gladiators 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 26 Chittagong Kings VS Sylhet Royals 6:30pm - 9:30pm
26 Feb 2012 Sun
27 Khulna Royal Bengal VS Duronto Rajshahi 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 28 Barisal Burners VS Chittagong Kings 6:30pm - 9:30pm
27 Feb 2012 Mon
29 Dhaka Gladiators VS Duronto Rajshahi 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 30 Khulna Royal Bengal VS Sylhet Royals 6:30pm - 9:30pm
28 Feb 2012 Tue
31 Semi Final 1 2pm - 5 pm Dhaka 32 Semi Final 2 6:30pm - 9:30pm
29 Feb 2012 Wednesday
Closing Ceremony
Dhaka 33 Final 6:00pm - 9:00pm

 


Friday, January 20, 2012

2.1.2 Fiber's Diameter Analyses

2.1.3          
Fiber's Diameter Analyses
The diameter of a fiber is the distance across the fiber’s cross section.The diameter of the natural staple fiber is irregular and varies from one part of fiber to another. Staple fibers diameters are measured in microns. The diameter of the smooth, even manmade filament fibers is uniform. The diameter of man-made fibers can be controlled during the manufacturing process by changing the size of the opening in the spinneret. The size of the spinneret openings, range from fine to heavy. The small opening, produce fine filament fibers. Filament fiber diameters are measured in denier. Natural or manmade fibers can be altered or changed purposely to produce irregularities for special or novelty effects.

Chaptar: 2.1 Classification of Fibers

2.1.1

Physical Classification of Fibers

A fiber can be described as any substance natural or manufactured that is suitable for being processed into a fabric. Fiber properties include length (staple or filament), size and surface contour. These properties affect the end use such as serviceability, aesthetics, durability, comfort, retention and care. To create a fabric, fibers are spun into yarns and then woven into fabric. Through these processes a fabric’s characteristics can be manipulated through blending, manipulation of the fiber and other methods. Look through a microscope and the secret to any fabric is beneath the surface.

 Filament Fibers:
All fibers having a practically unlimited or infinite length are called filaments. Filament fibers are continuous (long) fiber. It may be natural like silk or synthetic like Nylon.
Filament fibers are measured in yards or meters. Silk, in filament form is reeled from cocoons. Man-made fibers of a chemical composition, liquid nature are forced through spinnerets, hardened and produced into continuous filament strands of a determined length. When filament fibers are planned to be cut into staple fibers, a large spinnerets with many openings are used. The filament fibers are grouped into a bundle referred to as a tow and then cut into the desired staple length. Line or low man-made fibers are manufactured in continuous strands of any desired length. The tows may be cut into staple lengths, or flocks based on specific end use.
                                                                Fig-Filament Fibre
Staple Fibers:
Any fiber with a practically limited or finite length is called “Staple Fiber” These are small length fiber like cotton, wool, jute etc. it may be natural (Cotton) or man-made (Viscose rayon, Polyester).
The length of the fiber varies within a fiber of the same source and also between varieties obtained from different sources. Staple fibers are measured in inches or centimeters. Staple fibers include almost all natural fibers except silk. Silk is a natural filament fiber and may be cut up to form short staple fibers. Staple fibers must be spun or twisted together to make a long continuous strand of yarn. They may also be used in their staple form to produce non woven or felted fabrics.
Staple is fiber of cotton, wool or ramie etc of no more than a few inches long. Filament is usually a man-made fiber of indefinite length. All fabrics woven, knitted or crocheted are made from yarn. The size of yarn is usually related the weight of the fabric eg. heavy fabrics use thick yarns, for light fabrics fine yarn is used. There are 2 kind of yarns used in textile fibers they are spun yarn and filament yarn and use 3 different systems to control the size.

(2.8.7) Effects of Sunlight on Common Fibers - Comparison

2.8.7    
Effects of Sunlight on Common Fibers - Comparison

(2.8.6) Effects of Organic Solvents on Common Fibers - Comparison

2.8.6 
Effects of Organic Solvents on Common Fibers - Comparison
 

(2.8.5) Effects of Alkalies on Common Fibers - Comparison

2.8.5    
Effects of Alkalies on Common Fibers - Comparison

(2.8.4) Effects of Acids on Common Fibers - Comparison

2.8.4     
Effects of Acids on Common Fibers - Comparison

(2.8.3) Diameter of Natural and Meltblown Fibers

2.8.3
Diameter of Natural and Meltblown Fibers

(2.8.2) Chemical composition of some common fibers

2.8.2

Chemical composition of some common fibers

 

(2.8) Thermal Properties of Common Fibers

2.8  

Thermal Properties of Common Fibers

 2.8.1

Density and Moisture Regain of Fibers

 

 
































































 

(2.7) How heat affects Textile Fiber's properties

2.7
How heat affects Textile Fiber's properties
Heat helps the fiber /fabric to gain certain special qualities at certain times and are also harmful at other times.But under special guidance,heat helps fiber acquire the following characteristics
  • Softening, melting, or decomposition temperatures
  • Tendency of the fiber and fabric to shrink when heat-relaxed, or stretch when heated and under tension
  • Ability of the fabric to heat set
  • Ability of the fabric to function properly at elevated temperatures in one time or repeated use
  • Ability of the fabric to function properly at room temperature (or some other lower temperature) after exposure at high temperature for a given period of time 

Examples of Fiber Shapes

 


(2.6) Basic Textile Fiber Properties

2.6

Basic Textile Fiber Properties

There are several primary properties necessary for a polymeric material to make an adequate fiber.Certain other fiber properties increase its value and desirability in its intended end-use but are not necessary properties essential to make a fiber. Such secondary properties include moisture absorption characteristics, fiber resiliency, abrasion resistance, density, luster, chemical resistance, thermal characteristics, and flammability.
Some Primary Properties of Textile Fibers are:
  • Fiber length to width ratio,
  • Fiber uniformity,
  • Fiber strength and flexibility,
  • Fiber extensibility and elasticity, and
  • Fiber cohesiveness.

(2.6.1)Fiber Properties for specific requirements

Utility of fibers are broadly catagorized into 2 different uses- one is Apparel or Domestic use and the other is Industrial use.In order to be used in each of these each of these catagories the fiber has to meet some specific requirements.
They are:

Apparel/Domestic Requirements

  • Tenacity: 3 - 5 gramddenier
  • Elongation at break: 10 - 35%
  • Recovery from elongation: 100% at strains up to 5%
  • Modulus of elasticity: 30 - 60 gramddenier
  • Moisture absorbency: 2 - 5%
  • Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening point): above 215°C
  • High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric structure)
  • Dye-able
  • Low flammability
  • Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids and bases and conventional organic solvents from room temperature to 100°c
  • Ease of care

Industrial Requirements

  • Tenacity: 7 - 8 graddenier
  • Elongation at break: 8 - 15%
  • Modulus of elasticity: 80 graddenier or more conditioned, 50 graddenier wet
  • Zero strength temperature: 250° C or above

(2.5) Properties essential to make a Fiber.

Each fibre has particular properties which help us to decide which particular fibre should be used to suite a particular requirement. Certain fibre properties increase its value and desirability in its intended end-use but are not necessary properties essential to make a fibre. Thus it is very essential to know the individual aspects and specific properties of each kind of fibre.

(2.4) Fiber Properties

2.4

Fiber Properties

Reading a fabric bolt label is comparable to reading a food label. Often the consumer does not understand the ingredients, why some cost more, and what exactly do they do? Understanding each ingredient of a fabric helps sewers answer questions such as “Why are there blends?” and “A natural fiber seems better, why should I use synthetic?” There are many answers to these questions. One fabric may have a blend because it was cheaper to produce, another might be that the cotton crop had a shortage so they had to blend with a synthetic, yet another might be technical since cotton is a weaker fiber, the blend helps to create a stronger yarn for fabric production enabling garments created from the fabric to last longer.
Fibers are like vitamins in that you are customizing characteristics to get a certain result in your fabric. It sounds complicated, but it is really simple to the consumer. Educate sewers about the basics and they will be much happier with their fabric selections.
Some basic fiber properties, pros, and cons that are applicable to the home sewing consumer include:
  • Natural Cellulose Fibers: Cotton and Flax are examples of natural cellulose fibers. These have good absorbency and are a good conductor of heat. They wrinkle easily and pack tightly. They are heavy fibers, very flammable, and printed easily.
  • Natural Protein Fibers (Wool): These fibers have an animal origin. They resist wrinkling. They are hygroscopic-comfortable in cool, damp climate but weaker when wet because they shrink. Natural protein fibers are harmed by dry heat. They are flame resistant and dye well.
  • Synthetic Fibers: These are fibers made from chemicals. They are heat sensitive and they melt easily. They are resistant to moths and fungi, have low absorbency, and are abrasion-resistant. Synthetic fibers are strong and easy to care for. They are less expensive and readily available.

    2.3 Classification of Fibers

    Classification of Fibers

     

    2.2 Types of Fibers

    2.2

    Types of Fibers

    There are four types of fibers: natural, manufactured, synthetic, and minor miscellaneous types.
    Natural fibers include Cotton, Linen, Flax, Wool (any form of animal hair including human hair; not just sheep wool as most associate with wool), and various other minor novelty fibers such as Hemp and Spun Corn. These fibers you can pick up and spin right into a fabric.
    Manufactured fibers are types that come from cellulose and protein such as Rayon and Acetate. Rayon was the first manufactured fiber in 1949 and is also known as “artificial silk” since it was developed to mimic the costly silk fabrics of the time. Many people consider Rayon a natural fiber but technically it is not. Rayon is spun from naturally occurring polymers that replicates a natural fiber.
    Synthetic man-made fibers could take up a whole book alone with the many styles and varieties. New fibers are developed all the time. Common fibers include Polyester, Microfiber, and Nylon to name a few.
    Special use fibers are less common, but people may not realize that they come into contact with them on a daily basis. Surprisingly fibers such as rubber are used in Spandex. Metal such as stainless steel is used in carpets, and other metals such as silver and gold are woven into fabrics. New an innovative uses for fibers are being developed every day.

    CHAPTAR:2 FIBER

    Fiber is a hair-like strand of material. It is flexible and can be spun or twisted for weaving, braiding, knotting, crocheting, etc. to make desired products. Fibres can be obtained in natural form from plants and animals as well as in synthetic form. Man-made or synthetic fibres are either made up of chemicals or by processing natural fibres to create new fibre structures/properties.

    2.1

    Textile Fiber

    Fiber is the fundamental component required for making textile yarns and fabrics. There are two types - natural and synthetic. Natural fibers come from animals (sheep, goats, camelids, etc.) or vegetable-based fibers (cotton, flax, linen, and other plant fibers). Mineral fibers (asbestos, etc) are also classified as natural fiber. Synthetic fibers are man-made and manufactured from synthetic chemicals – (byproducts of the petrochemical industries) – nylon, polyester, acetates.The characteristics of fibers directly affect the properties of the fabric it is woven into.
    The history of fibres is as old as human civilization. Traces of natural fibres have been located to ancient civilizations all over the gobe. For many thousand years, the usage of fiber was limited by natural fibres such as flax, cotton, silk, wool and plant fibres for different applications.
    Fibers can be divided into natural fibres and man-made or chemical fibres. Flax is considered to be the oldest and the most used natural fibre since ancient times.
    A unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by bonding or by interlacing in a variety of methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, twisting, or webbing, and which is the basic structural element of textile products.
    It is a smallest textile component which is microscopic hair like substance that may be man made or natural.
    They have length at least hundred times to that of their diameter or width.

    Thursday, January 19, 2012

    Characteristics of different materials

    Nylon absorbs very little water, dries quickly is mildew proof and is not affected by most ordinary oils, greases or cleaning fluids. It is mothproof, and because it is not an animal fibre like wool or silk, does not offer food to hungry insects. However, if insect’s larvae develop from eggs laid inside the folds of stored fabric, they may eat their way out. Soiled or greasy spots in a fabric attract insects. Soot and other chemical fumes are highly injurious to nylon and direct heat and expose to the sun’s rays seriously weaken it.
    Rayon has many of the characteristics of nylon. It is more easily damaged by direct heat or the sun’s rays and is more combustible than nylon. Rayon fabrics “take a set” (form a crease) more easily than other fabrics, and if left stored in folds for too long, they will form permanent creases.
    Cotton fabrics, webbings and yarn, unless treated, absorb water readily. They dry more slowly than synthetic fabrics and are more susceptible to mildew and fungus growth. Mildew should never be ignored because it seriously weakens cotton or other fabrics. Heat is less damaging to cotton than to the synthetics. Bug or their larva will eat cotton or use it to make cocoons or nests.
    In all cases fire is a constant threat to fabrics. Smoking should not be permitted where fabrics and yarns are handled and stored. Rayon materials are almost explosive when set afire. Nylon although harder to ignite, will burn, but does not explode in the process. You should be careful to learn the storage problems peculiar to any specific locality or climatic conditions to ensure safe storage of these materials.

    Storage of Textile Materials

    It is necessary to know the general principals of care and storage of materials because they differ greatly in their resistance to various dangers such as moisture, heat, mildew, fungus, insects and rodents.
    There are certain insects; however that will eat almost anything. Mice build nests in almost any kind of stored fabric material and there are hundreds of fungus grows that thrive under most tropical atmospheric conditions.
    Conditions in various parts of the world vary widely in regard to humidity, heat or cold and the presence of insects. Such conditions much be taken into account when you are storing and protecting materials.
    The following ideal storage conditions should be attained as nearly as possible:
    -A dry room with temperature of 20o Celsius
    -Absence of direct sunlight
    -A storage room construction that affords protection against insects and mice
    -Air conditioning or some other method of humidity control (humidity 30% to 50%)

    Story of Textiles

    Transformation of Fibres to Fashion

    The life cycle of garments begin from the making of fibre, which in turn undergoes various spinning processes and converted into yarns. Once the yarns are ready, they go through a series of processes such as weaving, knitting, tufting, felting etc. and are converted in to fabric. The fabric then is further processed known as finishing process which enhances the fabric beauty by dyeing, printing etc. These beautified fabrics are then ready to be used for garments by being designed, cut and stitched. The entire process of turning a yarn into fabric and then garment is so complex and requires lot of expertise and precision.

    Textile Fibres

    Fibre is a hair like strand of material. Some of which are naturally found in both plants and animals are called Natural Fibres. Some other fibres are chemically manufactured which are regenerated fibres and synthetic fibres. Regenerated fibres are made out of various minerals like asbestos, wollastine (also called as Cellulosic). Synthetic fibres are purely made out of chemicals. Synthetic fibers are stronger than regenerated fibres and thermoplastic (soften by heat).

    Fibre to Yarn Formation

    When the short fibres are twisted together, they take the form of yarn. Thus, yarn is a continuous filament of interconnected fibres used for making fabric. Various types of yarns can be made by different techniques of spinning. Textile fibres are converted into yarn by grouping and twisting operations used to bind them together. Although most textile fibres are processed using spinning operations, the processes leading to spinning vary depending on whether the fibres are natural, manmade, and staple or filament.

    Yarn Spinning

    The process of twisting together of fibres to form yarn is called spinning. The basic processes included in spinning can be listed as carding, combing, drafting, twisting and winding. When the fibres pass through these processes, they are subsequently formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn. Two of the major methods of spinning are Ring Spinning and Open-End Spinning. Other methods include friction spinning, vortex spinning, air-jet spinning, etc.

    Formation of Natural Fibre Yarns

    Natural fibres, also known as staple include animal and plant fibres, such as cotton and wool. These fibres must go through a series of preparation steps like opening, blending, carding, combing and drafting, before they can be spun into yarn. Man-made fibres are processed into filament yarn or staple-length fibres (similar in length to natural fibres) so that they can be spun. Filament yarns are either used directly or are further shaped and texturized.

    Formation of Filament Yarns

    The man made filaments are produced by different methods and they can be formed directly into yarn without the use of techniques to connect fibres together to form the required lengths (spinning). These can be directly used to make fabric or can be twisted further to the desired consistency. There are many methods for making filament yarns such as wet spinning, dry spinning, melt spinning, bi-component spinning etc.

    Formation of Multi-component Yarns

    Integrated Multi-component Yarns are produced by combining staple and filament fibres in order to obtain certain of the characteristics of each. Integrated composite spinning and cover spun are two important methods for preparing such yarns. Blends of polyolefin and cotton, polyester and other cellulosic fibres such as rayon, and blends of polyester, cotton and wool fibres are some examples of Integrated Multi-component Yarns.

    Yarns to Fabrics

    Fabric is made by interlacing two set of yarns at right angles known as Weaving. This is generally done in handlooms or power-looms. Fabric may be formed by networking different types of yarns. Weaving and knitting are two of the major methods of fabric construction. Other methods like tufting, stitch-bonding, felting are also used for constructing fabrics. Nonwoven fabrics, broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fibre or filaments.

    Weaving of Fabrics

    Weaving is the process of interlacing one set of yarns with another set oriented crosswise to form a fabric. Yarns made from both, natural fibres and man-made fibres are used for weaving textile. In the weaving operation, the length-wise yarns that form the basic structure of the fabric are called the warp and the crosswise yarns are called the filling or weft. Four major operations involved in any type of weaving are Shedding, Picking, Beating up (Battening), Taking up and letting off.

    Construction of Woven Fabric

    Woven fabrics are constructed (known as weave patterns) by altering the warp and weft interlacement. At times warp yarns are laid parallel and very close to each other. Some warps are lifted and others remain as such and the weft on a shuttle is then passed through them to complete the interlacement. For example alternate warps could be lifted to get a plain weave fabric. Famous weave patterns are Plain weave (Rib & Basket weave are the sub-divisions), Twill weave, and Satin weave.

    Fabric Knitting

    Knitting is another most frequently used method of fabric construction. Knitted fabrics are constructed by using hooked needles to interlock one or more sets of yarns through a set of loops. Knitting industry has two main divisions- One manufactures knitted goods for apparel production, sewing centres, consumers and others. The other division manufactures finished apparel such as hosiery, sweaters, slacks, underwear, rugs and other home furnishings.

    Construction of Knitted Fabric

    The construction of knitted fabric is evaluated by the number of stitches or loops. Knitting is performed using either weft or warp processes. Yarns are interlocked to form the fabric, and the yarns run vertically while the connections are on the diagonal. When the interlocking loops run lengthwise, each row is called a wale. A wale can be compared with the warp in woven fabric. When the loops run across the fabric, each row is called a course. A course corresponds to the filling, or weft in weaving.

    Weft and warp knitting

    Weft knitting uses one continuous yarn to form courses, or rows of loops, across a fabric. Plain-knit, purl, and rib are its main stitch forms. Weft knitting machines can produce both flat and circular fabric. In warp knitting, a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of the fabric. Fabric is produced in sheet or flat form using one or more sets of warp yarns.

    Tufting

    Tufting is a type of textile weaving which is done by pushing extra yarns onto a ground fabric of desired weight and yarn content to create a pile of fabric. Many needles simultaneously punch the fabric at predetermined distance for extruding the fibres. The substrate fabric can range from a thin backing to heavy burlap-type material and may be woven, knitted, or web. Tufting is mainly done to manufacture rugs, carpets, blankets and upholstery.

    Felting

    Felting is consolidation of certain fibrous materials by the application of heat, moisture, and mechanical action, causing the interlocking, or matting of fibres properties. Wool, fur, and certain hair fibres are Felt under appropriate conditions because of their peculiar structure and high degree of crimp (waviness). Felts are used for making hats, slippers, shoes, insoles, earmuffs, table padding etc.

    Nonwoven Fabrics

    The nonwoven fabrics are made by bonding/interlocking of fibres through mechanical, chemical, thermal or solvent means. Various processes used in non woven fabrics are spun bond, melt blown, air-laid pulp and blends, wet laid, dry laid or stitch bonding .The methods of manufacturing differ on the basis of fibres used, techniques of laying these fibres and the bonding agents used in the process. Other methods are Resin Bonding, Latex Bonding, Gelatine Bonding, Spun bonding, Melding, and Radiation Bonding. Cotton, wood pulp, rayon, polyolefin, polyesters, nylon, acrylics, aramids are few raw-materials used.

    Stitch Bonding

    Stitch bonding is a process of stitching through yarns or fibres that are not connected with either sewn seams or fine warp-knitted mesh in order to join them together into a stitch bonded fabric. A stitch-bond non-woven fabric is made on a weaving machine that bonds the web, or holds the web in place, with longitudinal yarns. While other common fibre-bonding methods used in the production of non-woven fabrics-needle-punch, thermal-bond or chemical-bond-have the drawback of stiffening the texture of non-woven fabrics, the stitch-bonding method gives non-woven fabric a texture as soft as that of the original web.

    Fabric Finishing Processes

    Unfinished fabrics known as greige good are also called gray good or unfinished fabric. In finishing process the fabrics gets the desired appearance, durability and feel by employing various methods such as Preparatory Processes, Stabilizing Processes, and Textural Processes. Finishing process is either physical or chemical. It gives treatments like crease-proofing, water-proofing, fire-proofing, etc.

    Preparatory Processes of Fabrics

    Preparation, also known as pre-treatment, consists of a series of various treatment and rinsing steps critical to obtaining good results in subsequent textile finishing processes. In preparation, the mill removes natural impurities or processing chemicals that interfere with dyeing, printing, and finishing. Typical preparation treatments include desizing, scouring, and bleaching. Preparation steps can also include processes, such as singeing and mercerizing, designed to chemically or physically alter the fabric.

    Fabric Stabilizing Processes

    Stabilizing processes are required for improving properties such as strength, lustre, and other qualities of the fibre. Mercerization is done for improving properties such as fibre strength, shrinkage resistance, lustre, and dye affinity. Ammoniating is done for increasing lustre, affinity for dyes, abrasion resistance, smoothness etc. particularly of cotton and rayon fabrics. Shrinking is done to avoid the subsequent shrinkage of the fabric while usage. Tendering makes the fabric even for further processing. Decating improves lustre, appearance, feel as well as preshrinks the fabric.

    Fabric Textural Processes

    Textural processes are meant for improving the texture of the fabric such as stiffness, smoothness, weight or strength. Temporary stiffening, permanent stiffening, weighting, calendaring, glazing, embossing, moireing, cire process, beetling, raising, napping, sanding, gigging, tigering, shearing etc. are some of the processes which help in improving the texture of the fabrics.

    Textile Dyeing

    Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy to textiles and increase product value. Most dyeing is performed either by the finishing division of vertically integrated textile companies, or by specialty dye houses. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques, and equipment. Dyes used by the textile industry are largely synthetic, typically derived from coal tar and petroleum-based intermediates.

    Textile Dyes

    Dyes may be classified in several ways (e.g., according to chemical constitution, application class, and end-use). The primary classification of dyes is based on the fibres to which they can be applied and the chemical nature of each dye. Reactive dyes react with fibre molecules to form chemical bonds. Direct dyes can colour fabric directly with one operation and without the aid of an affixing agent. Basic (cationic) dyes, acid (anionic) dyes, mordant dyes, vat dyes, pigment dyes are some of the commonly used dyes.

    Dyeing Methods

    In Batch dyeing, a certain amount of textile substrate is loaded into a dyeing machine and brought to equilibrium or near equilibrium with a solution containing the dye. Common methods of batch or exhaust dyeing include Beam, Beck, Jet, and Jig processing.Continuous dyeing processes typically consist of dye application, dye fixation with chemicals or heat, and washing. Dye fixation is a measure of the amount of the percentage of dye in a bath that will fix to the fibres of the textile material.

    Yarn dyeing

    Yarn dyeing is used to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different-coloured yarns in the weaving process. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff penetrates the fibres in the core of the yarn. Some methods of yarn dyeing are stock, package, and skein dyeing. Stock dyeing dyes fibre using perforated tubes. In package dyeing, spools of yarn are stacked on perforated rods in a rack and immersed in a tank where dye is then forced outward from the rods under pressure. In skein dyeing, yarn is loosely coiled on a reel and then dyed.

    Piece/Fabric dyeing

    Piece dyeing is the dyeing of fabrics after weaving or knitting as opposed to dyeing the yarn. Most dyed fabric is piece-dyed to meet colour demands as fashion changes. Some of the common piece dyeing methods are Beck, Jig, Jet, Pad etc. Beck dyeing is a versatile, continuous process used to dye long yards of fabric. Jig dyeing uses the same procedure of beck dyeing but the fabric is held on rollers at full width rather than in rope form as it is passed through the dye bath.

    Fibre and Garment Dyeing

    Fibres especially wool and manmade synthetic fibres are often dyed before finishing. Finished apparels and garments are dyed with attractive colours to enhance their appearance. Pedal type garments dyeing machines are used for the woollen knit wear type garments dyeing. Rotary garments dyeing plant machine is the modified version of pedal type garments dyeing machine. Normal atmospheric pressure and High temperature are two types Rotary garment dyeing machines.

    Finishing Processes for Functionality of Fibres

    Finishing encompasses chemical or mechanical treatments performed on fibre, yarn, or fabric to improve appearance, texture, or performance. Mechanical finishes can involve brushing, ironing or other physical treatments used to increase the lustre and feel of textiles. The most common chemical finishes are those that ease fabric care, such as the permanent-press, soil-release, and stain-resistant finishes. Chemical finishes are usually followed by drying, curing, and cooling steps.

    Printing

    Fabrics are often printed with colour and patterns using a variety of techniques and machine types. The most common printing technique is rotary screen printing. Other methods, such as direct, discharge, resist, flat screen (semi continuous), Ink-Jet printing, Heat-transfer Printing and roller printing are often used. The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive, naphthol and disperse colours which have good fastness properties. Pigments are also used extensively for printing.

    Classification of Printing Styles

    Printing styles are classified as direct, discharge or resist. In direct printing coloured pastes are printed directly on the cloth and any design may be produced. If done on a white fabric it is called overprinting. Discharge printing refers to the fabric being the first dyed with background colour and then printed with a chemical that will destroy the colour in the designed areas. In Resist printing the cloth is first printed with a resist plate, a resinous substance that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is subsequently immersed in a dye.

    Methods of Textile Printing

    Block Printing - wooden blocks carved with a design are made from solid pieces of wood or metal block. Long running printing is usually done through Roller Printing. In Screen Printing print paste is poured on to the screen edge nearest the operator and is spread with a squeegee over the surface of the screen so that colour is pushed through the open parts. Other methods of printing are Heat Transfer Printing, Duplex Printing, Spray Printing, Resist Printing, Print-On-Print, Photographic Printing, Shadow Printing, Stipple Printing, and Warp Printing.